Friday, 9 April 2010

PROVINCE OF JUJUY ARGENTINA


September 20th 2007

I am  three hours away from Tilcara in the Northern Province of Jujuy where Incas built places. It will be a week of shamnic rites with elders or abuelos in Spanish to denominate Indian sages. Others are called pilgrims, I don't know where I will be put in the sacred circle of worship. There is not going to be any ingestion of hallucinogenics and recording or photography is not allowed. 
 I travelled from Buenos Aires on the 12th -where we stayed three days- to Rosario, where Che Guevara was born, along the rio Parana. But only just four nights ago we arrived in the most scenic area of Argentina in Cafayate where once the Calchaqui confederation of Indian nations lived. They included the Diaguitas in Cafayate, Ululas in Santa Maria and the Quilmes in Quilmes.

The confederation numbered about 100.000 people, but after they had resisted the Incas they they waged a war of 135 years, against the Spanish conquistadors. The Spaniards succeeded in cutting off the water and the food supply after the confederacy fell in their hands. They were tortured, raped, enslaved and marched away on foot to different areas, but the majority went on foot to Buenos Aires, which by bus is about 3 days drive...imagine.
In 1812 with the independence they were assimilated into Buenos Aires' population. The place where they had been kept by the Jesuits in a reducciรณn was called Quilmes, and so Quilmes still exists today, but the real Quilmes Indians as well as the Diaguita, I was told,  have perished or have fused with the Argentinians.
Today, the moment I was about to leave, a friendly old woman asked  me where my poncho came from - my Q'uero one if bought in Cusco-, I had a hunch she was Indian. She said she was from near the Chilean border near the Atacama desert. That rang a bell and I got interested.
"Are you Mapuche?" I asked her to avoid asking her if she was an Indian. She said;" No I am a Diaguita."

POKHARA 14 AUGUST 2007









Erwetegem 17 august 2007





Dear readers,

I am back in Belgium since yesterday, and safe at a friends home, recovering from my grueling experience in Boudanath (see 'Trashed in Nepal'); but fortunately I had some beautiful moments too.
I lived in Asia for about eight months; five of which I spent teaching English in Pattaya. Out of my three months unpaid school holidays I chose to travel for a month in Laos. Out of that month I spent two weeks with the Akhas who lived in a protected area. It was my most memorable stay of all.
Now for a shamanic meeting I will soon be travelling to the village of Tilcara in Northern (Jujuy province) Argentina. From there, after a week of rituals, I will move to Peru with a travel companion. But now there is a huge earthquake, I figured I could have been there too and gotten killed.
Below you can read what happened to me after the mugging. And for more recent updates you can surf to www.Kathmanduspeaks.com

I haven't sold a painting due to the general arts crisis in Bangkok for Thai painters and the fact that the average tourist only buys copy art. But the gallery here in Pattaya is run by an Irishman called Liam who has lived in Thailand since he was eighteen. He has become my agent so to speak and I left my paintings I had brought from Belgium with him. He happens to have a online website too. But alas I haven' been able to paint during the months I was teaching (my survival job). Among the many obstacles I acuse the climate, a depression that hit me hard.



Now here comes a previously e-mailed account of my Nepalese misadventures.
"I don't know if it is a test or his style of cleansing but I certainly don't like to be called a drama queen when all those things happen to me, whereas in Thailand all went fine as long as I was teaching.
The wound in my knee won't heal, it is so damp and although I liked Pokhara and I have met up with a few old chums I have been greatly tried in the last 3 days. I didn't see Krishna at all as he was working every day. So I just strolled through the dusty streets and (re)discovered places. Only yesterday, by coincidence of picking up a newspaper of the 6th of August, did I find out that the Royal Nepalese Airlines are in big problems and due to that they stopped flying for a week.

I was told in a travel agency that they couldn't confirm my flight back to Bangkok and I had to go to Pokhara airport to find them. There also they said I had to go to Kathmandu and wanted to give me a phonenumber; 2 employees were sleeping. I certainly did not accept to the making of a phone call to Kathmandu on my account and I wasn't going to take another taxi to another place. However, after insisting (In India either you cry, moan or blow your top, before the bureaucrates think it is serious business and (here they didn't think any different) they hung on the phone for 40 minutes to KTM, because someone picked up and then they hung up or maybe the line was broken, etc.

Anyway, in the mean time I keep reading the newspapers in which I read how day by day the law and order is breaking down, especially in jungle and terai areas where young communists have made their own militia after they broke away from the ones who got a seat in the government. The latter is feeling the heat too as the majority of the general public want to oust them, because they can't get the thugs of their own troop under control due too abuse.. As a result desertion witnin the Maoist cadre is on the rise.

In this climate everyone fears the worst is yet to come. My friend Krishna ( whom I finally met) told me just this morning that hotels in Pokhara were booked up to 80% for November, but nothing was sure as civil war could start anytime soon, he said).
So here I am with my stories of four youngsters who had mugged me and you have the commies raiding a village and leaving a mother with 5 children jobless and hungry because they pushed her husband from a rock, just like that).




Oh yes I also got pick-pocketed of 3000 rupees by hungry street urchins while I was buying biscuits for them.
This morning as I got walking to find the bus and have breakfast first, Hindu god Indra (rain god) opened up the sluices for the whole day and it has been pissing from the sky until now. It was horrendous to arrive in Kathmandu soaked wet and having to bear all the medieval traffic and noises emanating from screeching buses who horn at random. It makes me go berserk and wanting to kill the drivers. instantly.

The moment I got myself a seat in the bus I realized I didn't have my small digital camera anymore. It was hanging from my belt with a Velcro clip. All those weeks in Thailand it remained attached and now it was gone? Another fast hand or had it simply dropped on the ground? The sun got a little too mean through the window, hence I change seats and promptly banged my wounded knee (the thugs in Boudanath had kicked me about, remember? See the article trashed in Nepal) on one of those sturdy metal corners that make up the base for the seat. I was bleeding like hell but no one who'd reach out or asked me if I needed any help; they were all too busy watching another violent gun toting Hindi movie.

I went ballistic thrice about it and yelled at them what I thought about the bsu company shoving their violent movies into my throat for hours on end. The passengers remained passive, smiled and oblivious, until we stopped for a break. I thought I'd get some help for my wounded knee from a couple of Italian girls I had just spotted in another bus. I did get help at last in dressing the wound. Then barely after our bus moved on I realized that my precious South American hat with my gorgeous red feather headdress I had purchased from the Txucahamei tribe in Brazil had gone. This was the straw that broke the camel's back. Again I went mad, I couldn't take it anymore; It dawned on me how much I hated poverty now and how I hated myself for having come over here having to endure this ordeal. Was this what Lord Shiva had in mind for me?
What was the message here? Did it come from him or was I as usual in the wrong time and the wrong place?






I arrived back at my cheap budget place where my full suitcase had been kept for two weeks and I am not too sure to have a quiet night as everything is so noisy. I had no private bathroom and two cockroaches on the rug seemed to be waiting for me...My trip to Nepal had been both a success and a disaster.






My friend Krishna from Pokhara, told me that the reason they might have beaten me up was that they were either jealous or had a hatred for people who look like they are connected with something like divine forces or some spirituality of some sort, something still very much dreaded in this feudal and tribal society."



Alann

Thursday, 8 April 2010

A MALICIOUS APPROACH

Kathmandu Monday October 22, 2001 Kartik 06,  2058.

Last week, I was approached for an interview by a journalist working with one of this country’s vernacular dailies about my complaint: "How I was being swindled by the immigration office in Pokhara?" I was also asked for my views on other matters in Nepal such as travel safety and hygiene for travellers in restaurants and so on.
The article, which I couldn’t read, started with the lie "I will never come back to Nepal" something I never said. It also mentioned that the immigration office had scolded me and had demanded 2000 rupees, in order for them to give me a receipt of the payment for an extension visa, which is far from the truth.

Many other things were put in my mouth. Now I face an angry mob of people in Pokhara. Through e-mail one friend advised me not to come anymore to Pokhara because they are very angry with me.
No one will believe my story. Everyone will believe the press. I went to their office yesterday and they refused to print an apology or the admittance of their mistakes, neither did they want to write an apology for me that I could show the people in Pokhara, nor would they give me a copy of the tape with my interview. I am appalled... and don’t know what to do. 

Not only did I face corruption at the immigration office I also have to face corruption of my words by a daily which said they would be behind me if any problem arose after the interview. I was so confident they were allowed to take my picture.


Friday, 5 February 2010

MUANG SING 2007





From having been Thai territory in the 16th century, then a French protectorate from the 19th century until 1954, to finally being squabbled over by the British, Chinese, and Vietnamese, French Indochina, Muang Sing town and province, after the USA lost the war against the Communists, was brought into the fold of the Socialist Republic of Laos.  Nowadays, it has turned into this laid back village, visited by adventurous backpackers and the occasional charter middle-aged charter tourist who booked his tour in Thailand. Some of the lone travelers though come this far for the mere kick of getting to smoke opium, which has maintained its aura of the real McCoy for the few, despite the Communist government cracking down on it.
The local market was a riot of colourful tribals selling exotic game like coati, bats, and jungle fowl.  Laos isn’t Thailand, but here also one can see the impact of luxurious goods on the lifestyle of the nomadic forest dwellers. Children are sent to schools and one has to be able to get there.  Pressure to give up the traditional way of life comes from all sides.  The last straw was to lose their forests, and yet on this one too they seemed to have yielded to capitalism. 
Among the hill tribes I visited, the Akha were the most impressive.  Like the Hmong, they entertained a deep connection with the forest spirits, who channeled their energy through the village shaman. One needed a trained eye to find out which village belonged to which tribe.  Some houses looked so similar. They were nomads, but with the ever increasing pressure from the government to resettle (read: to be deported to as far as the capital), to close towns like Muang Sing which become detrimental to their culture.
The Chinese corporations have had no qualms telling the Akha, that it is better burning their (primary) forests, and then to plant rubber trees instead. They are persuaded that this will make them millionaires for in ten years from now they would be able to sell the rubber to the world. Everyday, as far as I could see, the forest was going up in smoke; I wanted to cry.  





It was not difficult to romanticise their way of life when you met them. Having hitched a ride with the Lantern, I was back in town, in time for the Rocket -pronounced 'loket'- festival, which would start the following morning. From my Guest house room I had a view of the preparations and show of colourful dancers, young and old, who arrived from all over the place. A shaman was present to officially inaugurate the festivities. A racket of gunpowder launching arrows out of bamboo guns straight into the sky, marked the end of Songkhran, (in which native and tourist have water and flour thrown at them), the Spring festivities. Many of the ethnic groups showed off their skills under a blazing sun, the children bathing in the nude in a brook nearby.  Being the only foreigner was a true blessing, as everyone treated me with the most exotic food and drinks, and which lasted into the wee small hours of the morning.

Saturday, 12 December 2009

A VISIT TO EL PORCร“N IN CAJAMARCA-PERU



September 20th 2007

I am  three hours away from Tilcara in the Northern Province of Jujuy where Incas built places. It will be a week of shamanic rites with elders or 'los abuelos' in Spanish to denominate Indian sages. Others are called pilgrims, I don't know where I will be put in the sacred circle of worship. There is not going to be any ingestion of hallucinogenics and recording or photography is not allowed. 
 I travelled from Buenos Aires on the 12th -where we stayed three days- to Rosario, where Che Guevara was born, along the rio Parana. But only just four nights ago we arrived in the most scenic area of Argentina in Cafayate where once the Calchaqui confederation of Indian nations lived. They included the Diaguitas in Cafayate, Ululas in Santa Maria and the Quilmes in Quilmes.

The confederation numbered about 100.000 people, but after they had resisted the Incas they they waged a war of 135 years, against the Spanish conquistadors. The Spaniards succeeded in cutting off the water and the food supply after the confederacy fell in their hands. They were tortured, raped, enslaved and marched away on foot to different areas, but the majority went on foot to Buenos Aires, which by bus is about three days drive...just imagine.
In 1812 with the Independence they were assimilated into Buenos Aires' population. The place where they had been kept by the Jesuits in a reducciรณn was called Quilmes, and so Quilmes still exists today, but the real Quilmes Indians as well as the Diaguita, I was told,  have perished or have fused with the Argentineans.
Today, the moment I was about to leave, a friendly old woman asked  me where my poncho came from - my Q'uero one if bought in Cusco-, I had a hunch she was Indian. She said she was from near the Chilean border near the Atacama desert. That rang a bell and I got interested.
"Are you Mapuche?" I asked her to avoid asking her if she was an Indian. She said:" no I am a Diaguita."

Thursday, 3 December 2009

I WAS TRASHED IN NEPAL

Dear all,

I arrived on the night of the 31st in Kathmandu, a country known as the Shangri-La. Despite its name it has turned into a chaotic place and anarchy is rampant. Police forces in remote villages are still being killed or punished by the YCL (Young Communist league), which here in the press are dubbed “the young criminal league", because of their violence. The cadres, who are in a coalition government as the Maoist Party, seem to be unable to rein them in.

Anyway, I came here on a mission, believe it or not, for Lord Shiva, from whom I got the vision in a trance about 5 months ago. I was told to go to Pashupatinath in Nepal. Then it would have been appropriate to go, it was still dry season, no floods and one day of Shiv Ratri (worship of Shiva allover the country in India and Nepal. I couldn’t go as I was still teaching in Thailand.
Came what came, I had to go and to my pleasant surprise, I found out that the month of August is an entire month of Shiva worship. I had to go to Pashupatinath, which means protector of animals, which Shiva is. No wonder I thought, why I see so many animals in my trances or I turn in one, ranging from cobra, python, to wolf or eagle and condor. Even owls, mustangs, you name it are part of the panorama of traveling in the 4th dimension. 
So, after one sleepless night in a budget guesthouse (noise the whole morning for they had a wedding party) I headed for Bauda, known as Bodanath. There you visit a stupa erected in 15th century and now worshipped by Tibetan monks, Nepalese, and the to Buddhism foreigners converted, who just like the Tibetans and Nepali prostrate themselves on the ground and make the prayer wheels turn clockwise for good fortune.
To my pleasant surprise I met a bunch of Rajasthani nomads who live in tents in a muddy place behind the stupa. Two shoeshine boys accosted me and took me to their tent dwelling and that’s how I got to know them. Pleasant, ‘because I dreamed of going back to Rajasthan one day to meet those nomads again, and look I found them here. Thanks Shiva!!!
Now many of my friends are not Hindus and nor am I, but I have turned into this jangri (Nepali for Shaman) and I go where the gods and spirits send me. I waited 3 days, still on antibiotics for a very resistant lung infection and feeling weak and feverish, I decided that I could make my move to Pashupatinath, which is a 15-minute walk over a street, which leads through meadows. Before I went I decided to buy two postcards, one of Shiva and one of Hanuman, the monkey god whom I had seen in a vision in Cuzco in the Sacsayhuaman Inca area. I told the friendly vendor in the shop, that one of my names was Wayra Inti (Wind of the Sun given to me by a Peruvian Shaman on the Island of the Sun Bolivia). "Oh, he said, "Hanuman means wind and Hanuman is also Shiva in another body."
So I would be “Hanuman Surya “ (the latter means sun) and thinking of this I got really startled to find out about the so many signs and messages I received in Thailand, too many to tell, though. It confirmed time and time again my connection with Shiva. "And you know", the vendor said: "Today is Hanuman day."
The very same day I went to Pashupatinath on Hanuman day, could it be more enlightening? At last I stood in front of the Baghmati River; it was a concrete gray with a rapid spewing from my left. I saw children playing and bathing in the nude on an islet in the middle of it. Despite the color I shed my clothes and went down the stairs into the river. The water was not freezing and reached just below my knees. I had a couple of adult Newaris (Nepalese) following my every move with an approving smile. Soon many more got interested and stood on the wall that separated the river a bit from the road. I enjoyed playing with the kids and instantly I was one myself, we splashed water and mud from the river at one another. I let my self float in the strong current and submerged myself followed by rubbing the silted mud over my face and body.
Then I faced the sun and made my vows and sun worship and asked His Lord to continue to guide me. I got out after having sprayed myself with some diluted detergent that a Nepali boy gave me. And I walked on not knowing exactly where the Pashupatinath sacred Shiva temple stood. Following my nose and instinct I ended up following a young Nepali who said he went to a Shiva temple up there where I was warmly welcomed on top of the stairs by elder Hindus. I left my sandals behind and entered the premises. I found a shrine right in front of me, a square building with a huge lingam (Shiva’s organ) cut out in rough rock red with Hindu powder. I took some and made a tikka on my forehead (a red dot on the third eye place). I felt so exhilarated.
When I left the shrine I saw more men sitting on the right side, one was reading the puranas (Holy Hindu texts) and another one was making a fire. Another young guy invited me to sit and we started a conversation. He had seen me as others had. He said they had wondered about why a foreigner was bathing there? What is he doing there? They felt foreigners should be more sophisticated, but then they didn’t know of my spiritual mission. Shambu who then became a new acquaintance, is a Brahmin and told the guys he could see me worship the Sun and so he knew I wasn’t doing the swimming for fun in that river. He heard my story and believed me. We have seen more and more westerners like you who have come here and said they had spoken with Shiva. Shambu itself means Shiva too!
He called his friends to come over and we discussed the many facets of spirituality. Then as it got later we went down to the other side over the hill to face the burning ghats in front of the Pashupatinath temple. A band of starved monkeys found me when I ripped open a banana and stole it from me. A big macaque took place on my head and when satisfied of his domination over me jumped away again. Later in the evening a group of women dressed in pure orange moved in single file from the left to the stairs that lead to the temple. We waited and it seemed the doors would only open around 7 p.m. We got to see a range of shrines built by the Mala dynasty, a maharana, kind of king who had thirteen wives and built a shrine for each, with a lingam and bull facing the lingam for every deceased rani (queen).
Then at last it was nearly dark and the temple doors opened up, but we sat from a distance of about 100 meters and the crowd inside the temple was blocking the view of his lingam, we couldn’t see anything. I’d come back tomorrow with Shambu. Before we left we went to see a sadhu (Holy man) with a white long beard who gave Shambu a fifteen minute lecture on what the ego (atman) soul and God is, basically rebuking my vision quest. 
Shambu and I left him for what he was, an orthodox man who clung to his taught beliefs and could or would not accept that anything can happen outside of the Hindu doctrine. It was nothing but a dream I saw, he had said, as this life is a dream too. I didn’t want to debate with him. I knew what I had seen months ago and what it meant. That was more than enough. Barely had Shambu dropped me off near the stupa and I walked home to my guesthouse Kailash (the sacred abode of Shiva in the Himalayas) -where else would have stayed but I lodge with the appropriate name?
But my happiness turned very ugly when I was bothered by a drunken guy flanked by three other intoxicated youths, sitting like him on the pavement in front of the small restaurant where I was going to eat. He obviously sought to provoke me just before I entered it at around 8.30 pm. He asked me imitating an American accent;"Hey, man whassup?" I ignored him, but he continued: “You look like some kind of Baba (a holy man) - I was wearing my red Karen sarong and a Cambodian scarf on my head, something I had done for premises of Pashupatinath.
I ignored his last one-liner with a smile. After I came out again, three of the four who sat near the restaurant carried someone away who could barely stand on his legs. The guy who had spoken to me was with them and they were either drunk or drugged or both.
I passed them by, just in front of them, and met with a fellow traveler from France who stayed in my guesthouse. Barely having started our conversation, the guy approached us and stood nearly face to face overhearing our conversation. I told him to leave us alone, as it was private. Three times didn’t work and I got really worked up about him, I told him that I would call the cops if he didn’t leave right away. He said: “Let the cops come!"  So, I pushed him away by his shoulder. During this my lady friend was pushed brutally aside and others in the street just looked on. That’s when he punched me and I instinctively punched back. Before I realized I saw fists and feet from blowing from all corners and feet kicking on me until I fell on the ground, more kicks hit my head, face and body. In the end I managed to escape and screamed “POLICE!" at the top of my lungs. I found what I thought was a teenage policeman, near the stupa, (I found out the day after, he was only a security guard with no power).

 

I was bleeding from my eyes which were now seriously swelling. My entire body was aching. The young policeman with a lathi in hand warned his colleagues. In five minutes they arrived at the scene but did nothing but watch when the tough guy attempted to attack me again, though some people withheld him. I had run for my life to the cops, but no one, even a group of monks and tourist who passed buy seemed to be bothered to offer some assistance. No doctor was found and I ended up in the guesthouse where I felt safe but in awful pains.

That was my day; it had started so beautifully, I wonder why it ended this way. I am now at the press, but no one seems to be willing to publish the assault story. I haven’t gone to the cops, as from my experience I know they won’t do anything.

http://kunstfora.nl/img/exto-1202974336.jpg 

Laatst bewerkt door alann (2007-08-04 09:02:41)